Climbing on Southern Sandstone- Tips and tricks on how to keep the rock safe
The best part about summer, when the weather gets warmer, is being able to get outside and climb! Luckily for me I live very close to Tunbridge Wells which is a hotspot for southern sandstone climbing. I have already got out around four times this year and it is one of my favourite weekend activities. I wanted to do a blog post talking about my climbing outside this year however before I did that I thought it would be important to do a post on how to actually climb on sandstone and protect the rock. Sandstone climbing is super fun so it is important we all do our best to try preserve the rock !
The main thing to remember about climbing on sandstone is that the rock is super fragile meaning that climbing on it can be very destructive if not done properly. This information does not serve to replace the Code of Practice or any information found in guidebooks. Make sure to take the time to read and understand the Code of Practice before going climbing. Check out southernsandstoneclimbs.co.uk for more information.
About the rock
Sothern sandstone is a soft rock type. It’s composition consists of a thin outer crust and a very soft, sandy core. Once the crust is damaged rapid erosion occurs as the soft layers have been exposed. Sadly the rock cannot be replaced. Although erosion will naturally occur over time every climber has a responsibility to manage their impact they are having on the rock and prevent significant erosion.
Key thing so remember:
The cardinal sin of climbing on southern sandstone is climbing on wet rock. Whatever you do, please do not climb on wet or damp rock! It is the quickest way to erode rock and care irreparable damage. If the problem you are on has wet or damp holds then find another problem or just pick another day to climb!
Never use wire or hard brushes when trying to clean the rock. This will very quickly wear down the rock. If it is really necessary to clean the rock then carefully use a soft towel or a t-shirt.
It is important when rigging to avoid the moving rope and the karabiners coming into contact with the rock itself. To get around this rig with a long sling or a static tope extended over the edge of the rock edge so nothing is coming in contact with the rope that shouldn’t be! The added bonus is its protecting your rope as well as the rock :)
Rigging with a low stretch/ static rope or a sling also minimises the risk of damaging your sling.
When you have finished a climb, just walk off. Do not try and lower yourself down as abseiling down the rock will also cause significant damage to the rock.
Do not climb on damaged rock or broken holds! You can tell if the rock is damages as it will be a lighter colour than the surrounding area and is significantly more sandy to touch. You will only damage the rock more by climbing on it so it is just best not to. There are loads more climbs to try instead!
Make sure your feet are clean before climbing. Take some form of mat down to clean your feet before a climb. The dirt on the bottom of your climbing shoes will be damaging to the rock and will cause more harm so just make sure your shoes are wiped before you start! Climbing with dirty shoes can also make you slip of the rock and climb bad so its definitely in your best interest to make sure the rock is clean!
If you are bordering, make sure you are using bouldering mats as it will reduce ground erosion.
It’s important to remember to never take it personally if you are challenged by a climber about your set up! We are all only trying to protect the rock for future climbers to enjoy. If you see someone with an incorrect set up make sure you mention it to them in a kind way!
I hope everyone has a great time climbing on the sandstone over the summer! Don’t forget to read the code of proactive before climbing and keep up to date with crag access at southernsandstoneclimbs.co.uk. They also have an instagram page which is super useful to keep up to date: @ssclimbs.
